Welsh ghost stories: ghouls, legends and stories for Halloween
Wales has always had a complicated relationship with the supernatural. The country's ruined castles, mist-filled valleys and ancient burial grounds make it one of the most atmospheric places in Britain at this time of year. Long before Halloween became a seasonal fixture, the Welsh were telling stories of the Cwn Annwn, the phantom hounds of the underworld that howled across the mountain tops on winter nights. Or the Tylwyth Teg, fairies whose interference in human affairs was to be feared rather than celebrated.
Here are some of the best haunted and legend-rich places to visit by train this Halloween. Plan your journey before you travel to some of these eerie locations this autumn.
1. Cardiff Castle, Cardiff
The history: Cardiff Castle hides a remarkable secret beneath its Victorian grandeur. The medieval shell keep at its centre stands on the remains of a Roman fort. During the Second World War, tunnels beneath the grounds were used as air raid shelters by thousands of Cardiff residents.
The haunting experience: Ghost tours run regularly in the castle's darker rooms and passageways. The tales are well researched and genuinely unsettling. The castle's resident ghost, according to local legend, is a shadowy figure that appears near the Roman wall at dusk.
How to get there: Cardiff Central station and Cardiff Queen Street station are both within easy walking distance of the castle.
2. Skirrid Mountain Inn, Abergavenny
The history: The Skirrid Mountain Inn claims to be the oldest pub in Wales, with parts of the building dating back over 900 years. It was rumoured to be used as a court by Judge Jeffreys - the notorious hanging judge - and more than 180 people are said to have been executed by hanging from the staircase inside the building.
The haunting experience: Guests and staff have reported cold spots, unexplained noises and the sensation of being watched for as long as anyone can remember. It regularly appears on lists of the most haunted pubs in Britain.
How to get there: The inn is around a mile and a half from Abergavenny station in the village of Llanfihangel Crucorney, with taxis available from the station. Trains from Cardiff take around 45 minutes.
3. Castle Harlech, Harlech
The history: Harlech Castle was built by Edward I in the late 13th century on a rock above the Irish Sea. In the centuries since, it’s accumulated a suitably grim history of sieges, starvation and bitter conflict.
The haunting experience: The castle is said to be haunted by a white lady who walks the battlements and the legend of the ghost predates the better-known song Men of Harlech by several centuries. On a grey October afternoon, with the cloud hanging low over Cardigan Bay and the stone walls dripping with rain, the atmosphere is extraordinary.
How to get there: Harlech station is on the Cambrian Coast line, with services from Machynlleth and connections from Shrewsbury and Aberystwyth.
4. Caernarfon Castle, Caernarfon
The history: Caernarfon is one of the great medieval castles of Europe, and it comes with enough ghost stories to fill several evenings.
The haunting experience: The most persistent involves a sentry on the walls who has been reported by multiple witnesses over the years, always disappearing before anyone can identify him. The town of Caernarfon itself, with its narrow medieval streets inside the town walls, adds to the atmosphere considerably.
How to get there: The nearest railway station is Bangor, around seven miles from Caernarfon. Bus services run between them regularly. Trains from Chester take around an hour. Trains from Cardiff take around three and a half hours.
5. The Red Lady of Paviland, Gower
The history: This is less a haunted place than a haunted story, but it's one of the most extraordinary in Wales.
The haunting experience: The Red Lady of Paviland is the oldest known ceremonial burial in Britain, discovered in a sea cave on the Gower coast in 1823 and dating back around 33,000 years. Despite the name, the remains were later found to be those of a young man, ritually buried with ivory rods and shell ornaments and covered in red ochre. The cave is only accessible at low tide and requires a coastal walk, but the story alone makes the Gower worth the journey.
How to get there: The nearest railway station is Swansea. Local buses from Swansea to the Gower Peninsula take around 30 minutes.
6. Coity Castle, Bridgend
The history: Coity Castle is a largely forgotten Norman ruin on the edge of Bridgend. It's all the better for being overlooked. The castle dates from the 12th century and includes the remains of a substantial medieval house within the walls.
The haunting experience: Local legend holds that the castle is haunted by the ghost of a woman who died there during a long siege. On winter evenings, the ruins have just the sort of atmosphere that ghost stories thrive on. Entry is free and managed by Cadw.
How to get there: Bridgend station is on the main line from Cardiff. The journey takes around 25 minutes.
Before you embark on your ghoul-filled tour, buy your train tickets early to avoid delays on busy evenings, especially if you’re travelling on Halloween.
